Khareef

Published July 5, 2011 - Muscat Daily  (Photo from September 2010 - Darbat Valley)

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Khareef is here at last. As the rest of Oman and the GCC melt in the soaring summer heat, the Dhofar region experiences something quite different.The first grey cloud appeared over Salalah in mid-June and as expected the heavy drizzle began on June 21, marking the beginning of the monsoon (khareef) season in Dhofar.

The heavy mist, gushing springs and emerald green mountains may look like tropical East Asia or even Scotland until you spot the first herd of camels grazing happily in a valley of wild flowers and butterflies. Sometimes it’s too good to be true, and it’s unbelievable to think that just a few hundred kilometres away lie the rolling sand dunes of the Empty Quarter.To others around the world the monsoon may seem like a mere change of seasons, but to the people of Dhofar it can mean a variety of things. For us locals khareef is the time of year…

- When an overwhelming number of tourists from other parts of Oman and the GCC take over our town and our roads, causing some of the worst traffic jams Salalah has ever seen.

- When our cars are permanently dirty, our floor-mats are permanently muddy and most windshield wipers need to be replaced.

- When we make tonnes of money renting out RO200 a month apartments to desperate tourists for RO150 a day because all hotels are fully booked.

- When every third car on the road boasts a UAE licence plate.

- When most local families rent land on the 'Garbeeb', (the flat plain at the base of the mountains) to set up monsoon camps complete with huge tents, flat-screen television screens, volleyball nets and portable toilets.

- When the number of car accidents increases because many foolish drivers have yet to realise that rain and speeding are mutually exclusive.

- When the price of coconuts and bananas quadruples.

- When it is wise to put away sandals in favour of plastic monsoon-friendly Crocs.

- When most locals either take annual leave or find any excuse to leave work early in order to go out and enjoy the weather. Example: 'I have to go. My wife needs tomatoes or she can't cook lunch'.

- When weddings are held on every day of the week.

- When every tailor, dress rental, hair salon, makeup and henna artist in town is fully booked in order to accommodate all the brides, their sisters, and several hundred cousins.

- When yours truly flees Oman in order to avoid the overwhelming number of weddings.

- When your normal five-minute drive to work takes half an hour.

- When every cow, camel and goat in Dhofar is happy because there is enough grass to feed an army.

- When supermarkets run out of basic commodities like milk and bread on a regular basis.

- When we take pleasure in watching naïve tourists set up their picnics in lush picture-perfect valleys only to frantically pack up and leave a few minutes later because they have been attacked by monsoon bugs.

- When barbecue equipment is available 24/7 in the trunk of every local's car.

- When locals won't risk leaving Salalah because there's a good chance they may not find a plane ticket back home until the monsoon is over. (I kid you not)

- When too many children OD on cotton candy.

- When flying kites is cool, even for adults.

- When we complain endlessly about the tourism festival but then end up going at least twice a week anyway.

On a more serious note, the tourism festival – normally a two-month event - was cut short this year because of Ramadan, the holy month of fasting. Since Ramadan will fall during the monsoon for the next seven or eight years, I'm sure the tourism industry will be affected.I wonder if Oman would consider developing Salalah into a place where Muslims from around the world might come to enjoy Ramadan. In my humble opinion, I think Salalah would be the perfect place for a spiritual retreat.The Ministry of Awqaf & Religious Affairs could collaborate with the Ministry of Tourism to organise and promote a series of lectures, workshops and other Islam-themed events that would draw Muslims from around the world to our town.The cool temperatures and shorter days would certainly make fasting easier. Food for thought….

Salalah Meets Washington

Published June 28, 2011 - Muscat Daily

( I wrote this while in transit at Frankfurt Airport last week. Humour me, will you?)

It's 5am in Frankfurt and I have not slept for two days. After combing the airport for nearly an hour in search of decent coffee, I finally found this café. There is a lot of bustle and activity despite the early hour, and the huge monitor above my head tells me my plane doesn't take off for another four hours.

I'm on my way home after spending an incredible week on the US Foreign Press Centre Tour on blogging/writing for social and political change that took place in Washington DC and Minneapolis. In other words, and despite severe caffeine deprivation, life is great and all is well in my world.

A couple of months ago I was contacted by the US Embassy in Muscat asking if I would be interested in participating in the tour, based on my work for this column. Candidates were selected from countries that are currently struggling with social and/or political tension. Never one to turn down an interesting opportunity, I agreed immediately.

Upon receiving the final list of selected participants in May, I knew it wasn't going to be an ordinary tour. The 19 people who would be joining me represented China, the Philippines, Indonesia, Pakistan, Afghanistan,Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Armenia, Turkmenistan, Portugal, Germany, Morocco, Bahrain, Jerusalem, Iraq, Bahrain, Zimbabwe, Uganda, and Kenya. When I first saw the list, I couldn't believe I would be spending an entire week with such a wide mix of nationalities. Their impressive biographies were intimidating, but once I got to know them, I knew I'd made friends for life.

Our Washington leg of the tour involved meetings with officials at the State Department, employees at the Foreign Press Centre, NGO representatives, bloggers, journalists and activists in Washington. We then moved on to Minneapolis where we were invited to meet with professors and students at the University of Minnesota's Journalism Centre. We also took part in Netroots Nation, a political convention for American progressive political activists.Being involved in the world of American politics, if only for a few days, was quite the experience, especially for those of us who come from countries where political activism is almost non-existent. The theme at most of our meetings was the use of social media in invoking political and social change.

All the roundtable discussions gave us the chance to see things from the Americans' point of view, in addition to hearing what my fellow participants had to say on the current situation in their respective countries. Our understanding of US government policy regarding civil society initiatives, democratic reform, and Internet freedom has definitely increased.

Our tour was jam-packed with meetings and appointments, with barely enough time for sleep, let alone sightseeing! However, I have nothing to complain about. The FPC were wonderful hosts, and we met some incredible people from all walks of life over the course of those five days, starting with very senior officials at the State Department and ending with homeless musicians and Amish vendors at the Minneapolis Farmers' Market. If you've never heard of the Amish people, I advise you to look them up online immediately, if not sooner.

Apart from writing about the recent political unrest in Salalah, my interests have always leaned more towards social issues and women's issues in Oman. However, after the tour and with the Oman Shura Council elections coming up, I confess I find myself intrigued by the world of politics.

Social media has forever changed the face of politics in the US, and I'm sure, in the years to come, the same will be true for Oman. Judith McHale, the Undersecretary of State for Public Diplomacy and Public Affairs, said something to us on our first day that kept coming up again and again in our official and private discussions for the remainder of the tour. She said, “The days of one-to-one government relations are over.”

Thinking about it now, what she said was very true. With online social media tools and websites like WikiLeaks available to hundreds of millions of people around the world, it will become increasingly difficult for governments to withhold information from their people.

Politics and social media aside, I think the most valuable lesson I learned from this tour was to sit back and listen to the world speak, literally. We often get so absorbed in what is happening in our own countries that we neglect to take an interest in world affairs. Our tour brought together activists and writers from 20 countries with nothing in common but an Internet connection and a passion for creating positive change.

After listening to first-hand accounts of the horrors that face my fellow participants in places like China, Zimbabwe, and even our neighbour Bahrain, I was truly humbled.

Overall, the tour was an eye-opener for me and I am bursting with new ideas. Oman may not seem like the most democratic of nations, but we are pretty stable and are definitely on the right track. We have more freedom of speech than we think and we have much to be thankful for. I left the US feeling inspired, empowered, and extremely proud of my country. I honestly feel blessed to be living in Oman. You should be too.

Washington D.C

                                             (photo taken on steps of the Lincoln Memorial in D.C)

In April, I received an email from the US Embassy (Muscat) asking if I'd like to participate in a Foreign Press Centre (State Department) sponsored tour for writers/bloggers in Washington D.C in June. Never one to turn down an interesting opportunity, I agreed and a few weeks later heard I'd be accepted into the program along with 19 amazing writers and activists from around the world. I spent the whole of May doing background reading and researching every possible related topic and finally I packed my bags and boarded that Oman Air flight out of Salalah on June 11th. The tour was I.N.C.R.E.D.I.B.L.E and I will be writing a lot about what I learned once I get over the jet-lag (believe me, you do not want to see my face after 55 hours of travel and no sleep). Nevertheless, I thought you should know that I will no longer limit this blog to my newspaper columns and articles. After the intense intellectual stimulation of the past week, I've decided to blog more regularly. I'm literally bursting with ideas. Thank you Department of State and US Embassy Muscat!

Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) in Dhofar: The Woman with the Frankincense Burner

Published  June 7, 2011 - Muscat Daily

A few days ago I was at Sultan Qaboos Hospital in Salalah visiting a friend who had just given birth to a beautiful baby girl.

There were several other women there when I arrived, and we all took turns holding the baby and marveling (naturally) at how perfect she was. When the baby was in my arms, I heard someone whispering ‘Come on, Susan. We have to leave’.

I looked up and saw an odd-looking older woman standing at the foot of the bed with what looked like a toiletries bag and a large frankincense burner. I must have had a confused look on my face because the woman standing next to me whispered into my ear again, “We have to go. She’s going to do it.”

The mother of the baby looked distressed and helpless but her mother-in-law seemed to be in control of the situation. I was herded out of the ward along with the other women, and only then did I realise the old woman with the frankincense burner had come to circumcise the child.

Shocking, isn’t it? To think that we live in the 21st century and such primitive practices still take place behind closed doors and secretly in hospital corridors. Almost all girls over the age of about 15 in Salalah have been circumcised. I thought the practice had died down over the past decade and was no longer prevalent in Salalah but evidently I am mistaken. I decided to make a few enquiries regarding the woman with the frankincense burner.

According to my sources, she has been at the hospital for as long as they can remember. She roams the maternity wards all day and makes herself available to anyone who wishes to mutilate their newborn daughters’ genitals.

Obviously she does not work for the hospital, and I have no idea how she supports herself because evidently she does it for free. All I know is that people demand her services because they truly believe it’s the right thing to do.

Many women in Salalah and in other parts of the Middle East claim it is obligatory in Islam and they refuse to discuss it any further.

Al Azhar Supreme Council of Islamic Research, the highest religious authority in Egypt, issued a statement saying female genital mutilation (FGM) has no basis in core Islamic law or any of its partial provisions and that it is harmful and should not be practiced.

I have no idea how prevalent the practice is in other parts of Oman and how much brutality is involved, but I know for a fact that it is widely practiced in Dhofar. If they tell you everyone carries it out ‘lightly’ like a small paper-cut, that’s a complete lie.

It may be true for a handful of families, but after speaking with several women I know, they confirmed that traditionally the whole clitoris is removed and the area burned to ensure that all nerves are dead, hence the frankincense burner. There are also several local clinics in Oman that can do it. Is it even legal?

What baffles me is that many men are not aware that this practice still exists in Dhofar. The problem with FGM is that it is performed by and defended by women, and is considered one of Dhofar’s best-kept secrets. In most cases, women do not ask the permission of the father before performing FGM on a newborn. I wonder how our men feel about that.

Education seems to be the only answer and change won’t happen overnight. The first step is to bring it out into the open without fear or shame. This should not be a taboo subject. The Ministry of Health (MoH) should start an awareness campaign explaining the health risks. There should be posters up in the maternity wards at all hospitals.

People still practice FGM because they think it’s healthy and they’re afraid of what will happen to their daughters if they aren’t circumcised. Many believe that by putting their daughters through this they are protecting them. From what, I wonder?

At times like these people need to distinguish between Islam and culture. Because the practice holds much cultural and marital significance, FGM opponents recognise that ending it requires that they work closely with local communities in order to spread awareness of the profound social, sexual and medical consequences of this practice. This tradition is kept alive by the lack of dialogue. This is where MoH should come in.

I could go on about this forever. The practice is considered a violation of the basic rights of women, and since it is mostly carried out on newborn girls, it is also considered a violation of children’s rights. Now, what can you, as an individual, do about this? You can start by spreading the word. Speak to the women in your family and help bring this issue out into the open. Change begins at home! 

Let's help 'them' build something!

Hi everyone! No, this is not my regular column. I was doing a little tour of the blogosphere this morning and found Dan & Jillian's latest post from Sohar. They both teach at Al Batinah International School and are hoping to take a group of kids from the school to volunteer with Habitat for Humanity in October to help build a home for a homeless family in Sri Lanka. They're collecting donations for the project. ANything from $10 up. Any small amount will make a difference. Payment is safe via PayPayl (I tried it this morning!). Please make a small donation if you can. It'll take you less than one minute and you'll feel really good afterwards, trust me. Here's more from their blog: .

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Dear readers,
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I'm proud to tell you that in October Jillian and I are leading a team of secondary students to Sri Lanka to volunteer for Habitat for Humanity. During our 11-day trip we will help build a house for a family in need of a home. In a country devastated by natural disasters and where the average income is around $40 (15 OMR) per month, many families cannot afford even the most basic accommodation.

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Our students will make a real difference.

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Here's where you come in: we need to raise money to make this possible. A large portion of the money we raise goes directly into the house in the form of building supplies (concrete, rubble, wood, etc). The rest of the money will simply get our team to Sri Lanka and provide us with minimal lodging and food while we work.

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During their IT class the students have created a webpage to provide more information and to collect donations (we collect credit card donations via Paypal, so the transactions are very safe). I encourage you to at least check out the website and watch the video...you'll meet the members of this awesome student team! Click here for the website. If you can, please donate, even if only a small amount..

Our kids are about to get the experience of a lifetime and help someone in need. Be a part of it!

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For more information on Habitat for Humanity, click here and here.

The End of a Chapter

Published: May 24, 2011 - Muscat Daily

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The past two weeks have been extremely puzzling for those of us living in Salalah. On the evening of May 12, I hit the runway at exactly 8pm after a relaxing couple of days in Muscat and the first thing I noticed was that I had no phone reception. It dawned upon me that something was horribly wrong when I stepped out of the airport and saw helicopters hovering over central Salalah.

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I knew immediately it had something to do with the peaceful sit-in that had started in February. The main highway was blocked by ROP officers and the whole centre of town seemed to be surrounded by armed forces. I was stuck in traffic for over an hour and unable to contact anyone in my family.

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Once the phone network was up two full hours later, there was a burst of phone activity as people called each other to report what they had seen and heard. It was later revealed through the grapevine that several hundred protesters had been arrested at the sit-in area and that several key speakers had been plucked out of the square via helicopter and taken to goodness knows where up north.

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More people were arrested the following morning, and finally the group was taken to a prison facility just outside Salalah, where they remained for nine days.

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As a young woman who wasn’t necessarily with or against the protests, I have mixed feelings about the whole thing. On one hand, I felt the sit-in had gone on for too long. I’m not denying the fact that without these men, none of the huge changes would have materialised in Oman. Without the protests that had taken place all over the country since February, over 50,000 people would still be without jobs, and families on welfare would still be living on next to nothing.

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We’ve seen so many Royal Decrees and positive changes in this country lately, and we have our young men to thank for speaking up, and His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said most of all to thank, for listening.

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I think the remaining demands on their long list require more time and I honestly believe the protesters should have ended the sit-in voluntarily towards the end of March.

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On the other hand, I also have mixed feelings about the army intervention plan. For ten weeks, I had been watching the sit-in from my office window, and I honestly still do not understand why it was brought to an end with such excessive use of power. Detaining several hundred people without charges for nine days doesn’t speak well for Oman’s justice system.

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It’s been nearly two weeks, and the armed forces are still occupying the square where the sit-in had taken place. For the first week after the arrests, there were army tanks lining the main road, and soldiers at every corner. I had to go through three checkpoints in order to get to my office, which is conveniently located right next to the square.

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I kept on hearing the same sentence again and again from my friends and colleagues, “There was no need for all this.” I tend to agree, because as far as I’m concerned, bringing hundreds of soldiers, tanks and weapons into Salalah for a bunch of guys sitting in a tent in a parking lot drinking tea and talking about a ‘different’ Oman was uncalled for.

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I’m saying this because the sit-in remained completely peaceful for almost three months. Zero violence. However, let’s assume for a moment that I’m wrong. Let’s assume they were committing a crime against this country. If those men in the governor’s parking lot really were a threat to security, then surely it’s our right to know why?

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If there were clear justifications for all the arrests, I think the people of this beautiful country want to hear them. We want to know what the charges were. I believe the sit-in would have died down eventually had the government given them a little more time. The numbers were already dwindling by the time the army came.

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Furthermore, the secrecy involving the arrests and release of all the prisoners baffles me. The fact that I had to read the Los Angeles Times and Gulf News in order to find out what was going on in my own town is ridiculous. Why wasn’t there enough local media coverage of the recent events in Salalah? Several times over the past two weeks, I’ve had to knock myself on the head to remind myself that this is happening in Oman.

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I’m horrified at the recent turn of events, as I’m sure many of you are. I hope the armed forces move out of Salalah soon, simply because their presence makes the quiet residents of Salalah nervous, and I pray that the release of all detained protesters from the local prison two nights ago will mark the end of a bitter and embarrassing chapter in the history of this town.

.I’d like to think what happened was a huge misunderstanding and I hope our men give up on the idea of sit-ins for the time being. There are a million other ways to make positive changes, and it all starts from within. God bless our wise leader and God bless the Sultanate of Oman. La fin.

Protesters Freed from Salalah Prison

Many arrested protesters were released from Arzat Prison in Salalah yesterday afternoon nine days after their initial arrest on Thursday (May 12). All those arrested were linked to the peaceful sit-in that started on February 25 in central Salalah opposite the Governor of Dhofar's main headquarters, nicknamed 'Freedom Square'.
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Participants in the sit-in, which had remained peaceful for over ten weeks, were demanding among other things better wages, more benefits and for former corrupt key government officials to be put on trial.

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On the evening of May 12, army officers entered the sit-in area in central Salalah and arrested all protesters. Helicopters that were seen hovering over the square airlifted a small group of the key speakers to an undisclosed prison facility in the north of Oman. Some of them were also released yesterday but the rest remain missing.
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On that evening, all communication services in the Dhofar region were shut down, causing great confusion among residents. More arrests followed the next morning before Friday prayers. A statement was issued by Oman’s official news agency ONA on behalf of a ‘security source’ on May 12, soon after the operation began.
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It said, ‘A security source stated that the security and military forces arrested a number of people in the governorates of Muscat and Salalah who were in charge of instigating the public to riot and break public order in a way that forced the authorities to take action. This was to deter them from transgressing the country's law and their endeavours for sedition and demands which are irrelevant to public interest.’
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Since then, army presence remained strong at many locations in Salalah, including the former protest area outside the governor's office. Security forces had also blocked the highway leading to Arzat Prison late last week following a peaceful sit-in outside the prison by the relatives and supporters of those arrested.
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Last Monday, tribal sheikhs delivered a letter to the Governor of Dhofar demanding the release of all prisoners and the withdrawal of the armed forces from Salalah. A delegation of tribal sheikhs had been visiting the prison all week, trying to negotiate the release of the detainees without them having to sign an undertaking.
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According to Ahmed, whose brother was among those released yesterday afternoon, over 350 protesters were being held at Arzat Prison. He said they had been told on Wednesday that they would be released.
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However, they were delayed for three days without a clear explanation. He also believed that not all the prisoners were released, but he had no way of knowing for sure, since they were being released in small groups of 20 and dropped off at different mosques.
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Published 22/05/2011 - Muscat Daily

Operation Salalah

Just after 8pm on Thursday, security personnel blocked the highway and main streets in Salalah while army personnel carriers blocked all roads leading to ‘Freedom Square’. Helicopters were seen hovering over the square and with all communication services shut down at the same time, residents of Salalah took to the streets in an effort to find out what was going on.

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A statement was issued by Oman’s official news agency ONA on behalf of a ‘security source’ on Thursday evening soon after the operation began: ‘A security source stated that the security and military forces arrested a number of instigators in the governorate of Muscat and the wilayat of Salalah, who were in charge of instigating the public to riot and break public order in a way that forced the authorities to take action.

This was to deter them from transgressing the country's law and their endeavours to spread sedition and their demands which are irrelevant to public interest.’

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A large number of Salalah residents had abandoned their cars in the middle of the roads on Thursday night to try and reach the protest square on foot. However the army had cordoned off the entire area and no one could get in or out until almost three hours later. Telecom services were back online two hours after the operation began.
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The first move by the army personnel was to break up the sit-in that has been going on in front of the governor’s office in Salalah since February 25. The protesters were loaded onto buses and taken to the Royal Air Force base. As per reports, the main organisers were taken to Muscat.

After midnight on Thursday, angry supporters pushed past the riot police into the square and started another sit-in demanding the release of their friends.

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Friday morning saw more arrests when just before noon the army closed in on the sit-in and arrested the gathered people. Things got out of hand after the Friday prayers, when protesters clashed with the army on Al Nahda street by the governor’s office. There were incidents of rock-throwing at the army and tear gas was subsequently used to break up the crowd.

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Though they dispersed for a while, soon they were back again marching up to the army and this time bullets were fired into the air as warning. A senior security official also came to speak to the protesters over a microphone in Jebbali in an effort to calm them down.

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Sources in Salalah say that most of those arrested on Thursday night were released on Friday, barring a few of the main protesters. Of those released, some have returned from the airbase while a few chose to remain at the base demanding the release of their friends.

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However with the protesters refusing to back down, a fresh spate of arrests happened early on Friday evening, with around five busloads of the arrested protesters being taken to Arzat jail in Salalah. Among those arrested is Abu Abdullah (online name) who has been running the Oman Protest discussions on Facebook since March. Sporadic clashes continued well into Friday night and at the time of going to press.

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Published - Muscat Daily - 14/05/2011  

WASTA: Vitamin W, Oman's Hidden Force

Are you tired of standing in line at the ROP office to get your housemaid's visa renewed? Do you want to receive a humongous salary without doing any work? How about getting your lazy son a job at one of the country's most prestigious organisations without so much as a job interview? You can have all of the above. It's easy, trust me. All you need is one tool wasta.

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I don't think there is one person in Oman regardless of their nationality who isn't familiar with the word. Also nicknamed Vitamin W, wasta can have several meanings, but I think the easiest way to define the term is 'using someone’s influence to achieve certain objectives.' This can include anything from expediting official paperwork to passing your exams.

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It is arguably the most valuable form of currency in much of the Arab world, far more effective than bribes, and sometimes more effective than laws and rules. For many it is more important than anything you can put down in your CV. It has become so effective that most people now feel that getting anything done smoothly and quickly requires wasta. In Salalah, everyone seems to have wasta. The reason for this, I'm sure, is that tribal connections are stronger here in the South.

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I've been trying to write about wasta since I first started this column in 2009. Due to the sensitivity of the issue, I decided to spare my mother the worry and avoid the subject. However, now that there are protests all over Oman demanding an end to wasta and financial corruption, I'm guessing it's safe to briefly highlight the issue.

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It's embarrassing to think that one of the first words non-Arabs pick up when they get to Oman is 'wasta.' It all starts with getting your apartment, car, driver’s license, labour card, phone number, etc.

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You may even start convincing yourself that it's harmless. Don't be fooled. It may be useful sometimes, but have you thought about the damage it can do to those who don't have it? An example of such damage would be a straight A student from a poor family in the interior whose well deserved government funded scholarship to the UK was taken by some rich kid with the right connections.

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I went through a brief stint in recruitment a few years ago , and I absolutely hated the job. For example, we would interview five qualified young men for a job, and one of them would outshine the others completely. Naturally, the recruitment team would immediately recommend that person for the position. However, things would change overnight, and a sixth name would mysteriously appear on the list.

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After doing a little research, we'd discover that he's the son of the boss' cousin's friend. No, he's not qualified, and yes, he gets the job. That's how wasta works. I don't think I can ever go back to the field of recruitment in Oman, simply because I cannot stand to see another bright candidate get turned away yet again because he doesn't have the right connections.

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Not only is it unfair to all the job-seeking qualified candidates out there, but it also creates an incompetent workforce. In a competitive world, wasta should no longer be relevant, but sadly it still is.

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Each one of us has, at one time or the other, needed help to get something done quickly. Some forms of wasta are mostly harmless, like arranging for a private hospital room for your mother or getting a cool license plate number for your car. That happens all over the world. However, the minute it begins to control big things like whether you get a job or skip your jail sentence, it becomes unfair.
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Wasta is an ingrained phenomenon in our society that will take generations of hard work to eradicate. However, I choose to remain optimistic. With the recent movement for change in Oman, I'm sure many wasta-related cases will be brought to light.

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In the meantime, I encourage you to get rid of wasta in your own personal dealings. Stand up to people who believe that their family name entitles them to concessions, and have a little faith in rules and procedures. I'm willing to sign a pledge to give up wasta for good. Who will join me?

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Published - Muscat Daily - 10/05/2011

Social Media & Change

It’s been exactly two months since the peaceful sit-in started in Salalah, and our protesters are still sleeping under the stars every night in front of the Governor’s office, waiting for reform. There’s nothing much to report on that front since nothing of great significance has happened over the past few weeks, except for a thousand people who marched through central Salalah on Friday to remind authorities of their demands.The fact that nothing major has occurred is probably a good thing. Why? Well, you can interpret that in any way you like. Let’s look past the protests, sit-ins and political slogans for a moment and shed some light on some of the hidden forces behind our peaceful uprising.

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It’s been fascinating to watch the role social media has been playing in Oman these past few months. We can no longer underestimate the power of simple Internet tools such as blogs and social networking sites, especially in countries where television, radio and newspaper content are heavily censored.
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Take Egypt for example, where online platforms like Facebook and Twitter have been credited with helping to propel the revolution and bring down the government. The situation in Oman is definitely not that dramatic (it never is!), since Omanis simply seek to improve living conditions and prosecute a handful of former corrupt government officials.

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In recent weeks, most Omanis have been visiting local Internet forums, namely the hugely popular Sabla, for real local news and updates from the protests. By real news, I’m referring to all the interesting happenings in Oman that are never published in local newspapers, especially Arabic ones, due to heavy media censorship. For some reason, English newspapers seem to get away with a lot more.
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Furthermore, the number of Omani Facebook users has increased significantly since the popular social networking site became available in Arabic a little over a year ago. However, according to Internet statistics, the number of users in Oman has almost doubled in the past few months to more than a quarter of a million (up from 120,000 in 2010). People who hardly knew what Facebook was a couple of months ago are now active members.

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When the protests first started in Salalah in February, I subscribed to several Facebook groups linked to the protests so I could receive updates on my BlackBerry. Since then, I’ve had to stop some of the feeds because it was becoming rather overwhelming. At one point, I was receiving live updates every few minutes, including photos and videos of the speeches that were being given at the protests in Salalah.
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Social media has provided a platform for Omanis to express their solidarity, both within the country and with others in the region and beyond. For many, the Internet has become the only effective way to get information about the current state of unrest in the country.

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However, despite the important role social media has been playing in Oman, we still suffer from Internet censorship. In recent weeks, several local blogs have been blocked by regulatory authorities in Oman for criticising the government and publishing leaked documents. In a February article on the situation in Oman, The New York Times mentioned a Facebook group dedicated to the Omani ‘uprising’ called ‘March 2 uprising for dignity and freedom’. It attracted several thousand users almost immediately, but if you look it up today, you’ll notice the group no longer exists. Furthermore, just a couple of days ago, popular local forum Al Harah was blocked as well.

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The big question is, why? I’m afraid I can’t provide the answers, but I know one thing for sure; media and Internet censorship can no longer silence the truth. Omanis have now experienced what it’s like to voice their opinions and speak freely, so there’s no way it’s going to be taken away from them ever again...at least not without a good fight!

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Published April 26, 2011  - Muscat Daily

Protests in Salalah: Time to go home?

Yes, believe it or not I’m discussing the protests … again. It seems inappropriate to write about anything else when all anyone talks about these days are the sit-ins and strikes that have erupted throughout the Sultanate in the past couple of months. For Dhofar, it all started on February 25th with a small group of men clutching a banner and marching through central Salalah to the Governor of Dhofar's headquarters. Their long letter of demands was delivered to His Majesty the Sultan almost immediately afterwards, and since then we've witnessed a steady stream of royal decrees and major announcements. His Majesty's response to the situation has been nothing short of remarkable.

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However, nearly seven weeks later the same group of men in central Salalah is still there and the same dusty banner listing their demands remains tightly fastened to the Governor's main gates. Delegations of Ministers, senior government officials, and tribal sheikhs have come and gone but all attempts to end the sit-in have failed. What was formerly known as the governor's parking lot has become the centre for nearly all social and political activity in Salalah. In fact, it's beginning to resemble a communal picnic. In the evenings people from all walks of life gather at the square to participate in the political debates. Every Friday the square witnesses several thousand supporters who come from all over Dhofar to pray with the protesters and listen to the widely anticipated Friday sermon, given by the one of the local Imams who has joined the sit-in. Judging by the crowd that was there a couple of nights ago, it doesn't look like they're going anywhere anytime soon.

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On the one hand, I don't blame the protesters. For years our politically immature nation has been kept silent by the unwritten rules that everyone understood but didn't necessarily agree with. Challenging the status-quo was a definite no-no, and many Omanis in the towns and villages outside the capital felt they were being sidelined. However, thanks to recent events in countries like Tunisia and Egypt, the greatest achievement for Omanis so far has been freedom of speech. Over the past two months, Omanis have been busy releasing all their bottled up frustrations and anger. I'm sure the exercise has been quite healthy for us as a nation. Once the novelty has worn off, I suppose we'll all calm down and go home, but I hate to think how long it will take.

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On the other hand, I'm beginning to feel that the situation has been dragging on for too long. At first the idea of our own little revolution seemed terribly exciting, especially to those of us who weren't alive at the time of the Dhofar Insurgency in the 1960s and 70s. However, as the weeks go by I can't help but wonder why the sit-in continues? It's worth noting that there has been no violence at all in Dhofar, and definitely no ROP or military presence. However, despite the peacefulness of the situation, I don't see how camping out in a parking lot for seven weeks is going to push the government any harder. The people's demands are being addressed and their voices have definitely been heard, so perhaps it's time to go home?

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There's no denying the fact that we have the protesters to thank for the major changes that have taken place in Oman in the past few weeks. For example, without them those 50,000 citizens may still be without jobs, and all those families on welfare would still be living on next to nothing. We're definitely proud of what they have achieved. However, it's time to realize that although all the demands may not be met immediately, we have gained so much more in recent weeks. We can start playing a larger role by being proactive and realizing that protesting isn't the only way to get what we want. I can think of plenty of other ways. How about hard work?

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Finally, it's important to emphasize again and again that the situation in Oman is most certainly not a continuation of the protests in other parts of the Middle East. All we are asking for is a few policy changes. My prediction is that things may calm down if His Majesty addresses the nation directly. Omanis may have lost faith in the government, but we will forever be loyal to our Sultan. I have no idea where all this is heading, but I am extremely optimistic about the future of this country. Oman has indeed has been a shining example of how to protest peacefully. We have a long journey ahead of us but with hard work and the right attitude, anything is possible

A New Oman

Published Tuesday March 15, 2011
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Believe it or not, the peaceful sit-in that started in Salalah on February 25th is still happening. Every morning for the past three weeks, I've had to drive through throngs of sleeping protesters and placards demanding an end to corruption in order to get to my office. Meanwhile, a plethora of smaller peaceful protests have erupted at many major institutions in Salalah including the university and colleges. As for the rest of Oman, every major organization seems to be on strike, and everyday I hear of yet another sit-in happening at some ministry or other. Many of the demands seem perfectly logical to me, while others completely contradict the idea of a 'new' Oman. The protest situation may have gotten a little out of hand, but who can blame us? For the first time in decades, we've been allowed to criticize the way this country is run. Discovering that the government will tolerate our protests is unbelievable, but I suppose with recent events in the Middle East they have no other choice. Once the thrill of staging protests wears off, hopefully things will calm down… but then what?
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.Oman's 'revolution' (the only possible word that can describe the situation) is all anyone talks about these days. Everyday more Royal decrees are issued announcing jobs, benefits, and wage increases. A dozen ministers have been replaced, committees have been set up, and new policies are being formulated. His Majesty's response to the voice of the people has been remarkable. It may be hard to outsiders to understand the deep respect that Omanis have for him but rest assured that we do genuinely love our Sultan. Our loyalty is not part of any government choreography as may have been the case in other Middle Eastern nations. He has undoubtedly guided our country wisely, and the past 40 years have been extremely prosperous for Oman.

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However, it's time for reform; and by reform, I do not just mean the government. Omanis believe that His Majesty can transform this country from its present state into a democratic country, but I can't help wondering if Omanis are ready? With freedom comes responsibility. We as individuals have to start by slowly changing our lifestyle, attitude towards work, and start taking responsibility for our own lives. We've gotten used to being spoon-fed by our paternalistic government for the past four decades and this has resulted in us expecting the government to solve all our problems. Many Omanis are either too proud or too lazy to take on menial jobs. I'm against issuing a monthly allowance for the unemployed, and I'm also against forgiving all private debts and housing loans. Most Omanis are in debt over huge mansions and fancy cars that they don't even need. We have to start living at our own level of income. If we want the government to help us, we have to help ourselves first. Omanis are not the most hard-working people on earth. We've been spoiled for too long.

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Problems aside, I feel the need to echo fellow columnist Riyadh's sentiments; the greatest achievement so far has been freedom of speech. That in itself makes every protest worthwhile. In the past few weeks we've broken boundaries that many of us never knew existed. The fact that I’m able to write these very words today is incredible. For the past 18 months I have been practicing self censorship with every column that gets published. The rules are unwritten, but we all understand them. For years, media publications in this country had no credibility, and Omanis would head to internet forums for 'real' news. Quite often, websites revealing such news would be inaccessible. In recent weeks, however, Facebook groups covering the protests have not been blocked, nor have the endless discussions on local blogs and internet forums. Twitter is on fire and the hundreds of videos uploaded onto YouTube are accessible to all. This newfound freedom of expression is exhilarating.

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There's no denying the fact that we've had 40 prosperous years. The old system definitely had its virtues, but that era is over now. As a nation I think we're ready now to open new page and try something different. These have truly been significant times here in the Sultanate and the major changes aren't even over yet. This is just the tip of the iceberg. As a young Omani woman, I don't know how to react to these changes or what to think. In fact, I don't think anyone knows really. The only thing I know for sure is that Oman will never be the same again, and it sure is exciting to be here to witness it!

Protest Fever Continues in Salalah

5,000 people still occupy the area outside the Governor’s office in central Salalah on Friday afternoon (Photo: Mohammed al Shahri)

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*** Just some extra reporting I've been doing for Muscat Daily to cover the Salalah protests***

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Susan al Shahri  - 12/03/2011 10:40 am

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Two weeks after protests started in the southern province of Dhofar, the peaceful sit-in continues in front of the Governor's office in central Salalah. Yesterday's Friday prayers witnessed a gathering of about 5,000 people, down from an estimated 10,000 last week.

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Sheikh Said Jadad, a local Imam and active speaker at the protests delivered a special Friday sermon where he thanked His Majesty for listening to the voice of the people and acting upon it. Local speakers from all walks of life continue to speak to the crowds on a daily basis and donations pour in from local supporters for the provision of meals.

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Recent changes in the cabinet as well as a number of Royal Decrees have had a positive impact on the protesters. However, most of them claim they will not leave until the remaining demands have been met. The list of demands, still prominently displayed on the Governor's main gates in Salalah include an increase in wages, cancellation of personal loans, and a public corruption investigation involving former key members of the government.

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Meanwhile, smaller protests have erupted in various locations around Salalah. On Monday morning, a group of women started protesting in front of the Women's Association's Salalah headquarters with various demands ranging from an end to government corruption to the removal of the association's management.

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At Dhofar University, several hundred students went on strike on Tuesday. Their demands included lower tuition fees, more student benefits and becoming a government-owned university. The Vice Chancellor of the University met with the students several times to discuss the way forward.

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A public relations employee at the university confirmed that all public events, including a visit by the Japanese Ambassador to Oman were postponed in order to avoid clashes with the protesting students.

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Classes were disrupted by student protests that started at Salalah College of Technology on March 1 and continued until March 9. Students asked for changes in the academic programmes, a new dean, better grading systems, and various other demands.

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A team from the Ministry of Manpower met with the students on Monday to discuss the situation and to announce the hiring of a new dean at the college. An Omani lecturer at the college said she supported the students' demands but wished classes hadn't come to a complete halt. Classes will officially resume today.

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Meanwhile, next door at Salalah College of Applied Sciences, students also went on strike last Monday. Their long list of demands included changes in the administration, better facilities and benefits for students, an easier curriculum, and the need for summer classes to be offered in Salalah.

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According to Talal, a sophomore at the college and one of the protesters, students plan to continue their protests until they receive an official reply from the Ministry of Higher Education. Unlike Salalah College of Technology, classes here weren't fully disrupted.

Salalah Protests Gear Up for the Long Haul

 Just some extra reporting I've been doing for Muscat Daily to cover the Salalah protests.

Susan al Shahri

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07/03/2011 10:27 am

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Ten days after a few hundred protesters marched to the gates of the Governor's headquarters in Salalah, the peaceful sit-in is still going strong. Since the huge crowds at the Friday prayers, the number has averaged around 3,000 during the day and more than double that at night.

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The ten large outdoor tents that were set up to accommodate the overwhelming numbers for Friday prayers are still standing. Temporary restaurants and water facilities have been set up to cater to the needs of the protesters, and donations keep pouring in to provide meals.

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On Sunday morning, a delegation of very senior officials from the government set off on foot from the Governor's office to the tents in an attempt to meet the crowds, but was told to leave rather harshly by some protesters who overreacted to their sudden visit.

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Mohammed Mustahil, an active speaker at the protests, expressed his unhappiness with the incident, saying that he believed an open dialogue with government officials would have resulted in a positive outcome. He also said that many of the other protesters shared his sentiments.

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Ahmed, one of the protesters who expressed his disapproval at the delegation's sudden appearance, said that the protesters were not ready to negotiate until all their demands are met. The large banner listing their demands remains prominently displayed on the main gate of the Governor's office in Dhofar.

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Groups of protesters from the towns of Taqah, Mirbat and Sadah have also joined the sit-in in Salalah. What started off as a small protest organised by the unemployed and underpaid has become a gathering of thousands from all walks of life. Doctors, writers, religious leaders, lawyers, students, unemployed young men, and even Majlis Al Shura candidates have joined the protesters.

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People with positive inputs are encouraged to come and speak to the crowds. In order to facilitate this, a stage has been set up and loudspeakers have been installed around the square. Most of these speeches are recorded and immediately uploaded onto Facebook, YouTube, and many local forums.

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During the evenings it has become nearly impossible to find any parking near the square. Despite the overwhelming number of supporters, the sit-in remains extremely peaceful.

Protests in Salalah - Friday Gathering Draws Thousands in Salalah

This morning my report on the protests in Dhofar actually made it to the front page of the newspaper. I'm flattered.

05/03/2011 10:20 am 

Susan al Shahri

A week after the peaceful sit-in started in Salalah, the crowds continue to grow by the hour. Thousands flocked to the protesters' headquarters across the Governor of Dhofar's office, now nicknamed 'Freedom Square', for Friday prayers.

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The purpose of Friday's gathering was to remind the government that the peaceful sit-in would continue until their demands were met. Banners seeking an end to corruption were set up at the entrance to the square. While various decisions have been taken with regard to provision of jobs for 50,000 Omanis, a grant of RO150 for the unemployed as well as changes in the cabinet, the protesters are still not satisfied.

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A writer and recent speaker at the protest in Salalah estimated that there were around 10,000 people present for the Friday prayers. One of the protesters, Ali, who contributed to the setting up of ten tents at the square, claimed that each could accommodate up to 900 people. Not only were all the ten tents filled, there were also hundreds of people praying out in the sun and under the trees in the square.

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A special Friday sermon was delivered by the Imam of a local mosque, Nasser Bait Ali Sakroon, who encouraged the people gathered to be brave, patient, peaceful and to say ‘Enough’ to corruption. A local blogger who goes by the name, Mahfaif, set up his camera equipment on the roof of a building overlooking the square and managed to get some shots of the square before the sermon.

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He estimated that there were between 5,000-7,000 people at the time that he joined the Friday prayers. Several sources confirmed that lunch for the thousands who showed up at the square on Friday was provided by one of Dhofar's wealthy businessmen.

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Meanwhile thousands of others continue to send donations to help with the provision of meals for the protesters. There was no army presence in the area, while police presence was limited to a few who sat in their vehicles near the square.

Protests in Salalah: What do we want?

Published Monday February 28th, 2011
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On most days my office windows look out onto beautiful mountains, palm trees, pretty government buildings, and quiet Salalah traffic. This week, however, the view is a little more interesting. It includes protesters, banners, tents and police vehicles.

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 A few weeks ago I would have laughed off the mere thought of an uprising in Oman, let alone the peaceful town where I live. Nonetheless, on Friday hundreds of protesters marched from the Grand Mosque in Salalah to the central area of town where most government offices are.

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Banners with clear demands were plastered to the gates of the Minister of State's headquarters and the protesters set up camp for the night opposite the gates. It has been four days already and from what I can see it doesn't look like they're going anywhere soon. Not only have they increased in numbers, but they've actually set up one of the most organized protest camps I have ever seen. The quiet collection of donations and the distribution system for food and water is something to be admired. When I drove by last night, the protesters were sitting in groups, talking quietly.

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So what is it that they want? Well, some of the demands seem perfectly realistic and feasible to me, whereas others may seem a little ambitious for the time being (canceling all personal and housing loans?). First and foremost, protesters are demanding an end to administrative and financial corruption in the government and private sector. Believe it or not, Omanis finally want to crack down on wasta (influence). I never thought I'd see the day.

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 Other major demands include the need for more jobs, higher wages, and lower prices for basic commodities such as water and electricity. Do I blame them? No. I live a comfortable life but all around me I see people who live from paycheque to paycheque. Most people I know are in debt, and by the end of the month many of them don't have money to even buy petrol or groceries. Countless young people I know with university degrees are unable to find employment anywhere. Other demands include better healthcare and a complete revamp of the public schooling system. The list has been posted on every local internet forum and is being sent around in the form of emails and SMS.

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Before getting all excited about the protest drama, I find it's extremely important to make a clear distinction between the situation in Oman and recent events that have taken the Middle East by storm. We cannot in any way compare ourselves to the people of Tunisia, Egypt and Libya. It's completely irrelevant. Omanis have much to be thankful for. We live in peaceful country which has come a long way since His Majesty took over 40 years ago and we are truly blessed. With these current protests, Omanis are simply demanding changes to a few government policies.

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 The exaggeration I've seen in the international media regarding the protests in Oman is uncalled for. Simply put, Omanis are peaceful people who have recently discovered that protests actually work. Does that mean our protesters should become violent? No. Should we drop everything and go out into the streets? Absolutely not!

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I'm a young Omani woman with very little experience in politics or anything of the sort, but I do know one thing; if we establish clear goals and collectively work towards them, they can be achieved. I'm hoping Oman can become a shining example of how protests should end up; in a win-win situation. We can't demand an end to government corruption unless we as individuals stop depending on wasta ourselves on a much smaller scale. We cannot demand more jobs unless we prove that we are willing to really go out and work. There are definitely jobs out there but in many cases Omanis are too proud to go out and become shopkeepers or join other occupations which they consider to be beneath them. The age of comfortable office jobs for everyone is over.

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Oman is not a huge country with an overwhelming population. With less than two million citizens, it's definitely possible to work together in order to make positive changes. If we have the right attitude, change can happen. It'll be interesting to see how the situation unfolds, but deep inside me I hope Omanis realize that by being proactive, lots can be achieved. Fingers crossed.

Young People & Depression

Published February 15, 2011

The first time I ever thought of depression as a medical condition was nearly a decade ago when one of my high school classmates here in Salalah suddenly stopped attending classes halfway through the semester. She’d always been a loner and didn’t participate much in class so it took a few days before anyone realized she was gone. Two weeks later, she still hadn't showed up. Slowly rumors began to spread about her sudden disappearance and despite her family's desperate attempts at concealing the truth, we found out she had tried to end her life by swallowing bleach. She had been suffering from severe clinical depression and heaven knows what else, but her family refused to acknowledge it. Instead, they took her to local witchdoctors whose diagnosis was simply demonic possession. After undergoing a couple of exorcisms she decided she couldn't cope with life anymore and wanted to take the easy way out. She was seventeen at the time.

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Sadly, situations like this one are not uncommon here in Dhofar. I can think of at least ten young people I know who have suffered from severe depression but weren't brave enough to tell their families or go to a doctor for fear of being talked about and criticized. In our conservative society, people with depression or any form of mental illness are looked down upon, and if they do speak up they are immediately taken to a witchdoctor or religious sheikh. I agree that keeping your faith strong works in many cases for adults, but isn't shoving a prayer book into the hands of a depressed teenager who is struggling with suicidal thoughts a little harsh?

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There's no point denying the fact that depression is an illness that is definitely on the rise among young people and adults in Oman and all over the world, but the good news is that medical treatment is available. Believe it or not, there are some really excellent psychologists in our government and private hospitals and clinics who can help patients suffering from clinical depression. According to SQU Hospital in Muscat, over two thousand women were diagnosed with depression in 2010. The fact that they sought medical help at all is a huge step in the right direction. I can only wish the same were true for Salalah. We have a long way to go before people here open up about mental illnesses. Sure, it's discussed in secret and anonymously in local internet forums, but we need to publicly shed light on the situation. Our kids need to be educated about their mental wellbeing. They need to know when to ask for help. Most young people are reluctant to seek help and don't realize that proper treatment (i.e. not branding or exorcisms) can alleviate the symptoms in most cases. Yet because it often goes unrecognized, depression continues to cause unnecessary suffering.

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Several decades ago life in Oman was much simpler than it is now and depression wasn't much of an issue, but nowadays life can be too whelming for many young people. Some of us are able to cope but others simply can't. We all have our low days every now and then, but when one or two days become several months, it's time to seek help. The frightening thing is that many young victims in Oman feel they have nowhere to go for help. Most parents aren't able to recognize the symptoms, let alone school counselors and teachers.

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I am in no way an expert on anything related to mental health but I have witnessed enough cases in this town where severe depression has been mistaken for demonic possession and hushed to protect the family's reputation. We need more mental health professionals in rural areas outside the capital and we need to shed more light on the secrecy surrounding mental illness in Omani culture. It's nothing to be ashamed of.

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On a final note… since one of the strengths of society here is the fact that we're so intricately connected, surely we can use that to our advantage by providing collective support to people who suffer from mental illnesses? When someone dies, we rush to support the family and when someone is in need, we do the same. Surely if someone is suffering from depression, we could provide support as well?

Why The Black Abaya?

Published February 8, 2011
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Have you ever wondered why women in Oman and in the GCC wear the black abaya? I certainly have. We started off pretty well. Take a look at photos from Oman in the 1960s and 1970s. Women wore modest, traditional and colorful clothing. I’m not quite sure when the black crept its way into Oman, but many people blame Iran and Saudi. Today, the concept of the black abaya has become so engrained in our society that we can’t imagine our lives without it. Most girls in are told by their families to start wearing it when they turn thirteen or fourteen and are stuck with it for life. Once you start, there’s no going back. 

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I started wearing an abaya in grade eight because all the girls in my class wore it, and I didn’t want to stand out. Now, ten years later I can’t even drive to my sister’s house down the street without putting it on. Why? Because I’m afraid of what will happen if I don’t wear it. I feel as if I’d be committing a crime against society by not wearing it. In fact, I’m pretty sure society here in Salalah would also feel I’m doing something wrong, and someone would surely feel the need to report my scandalous behavior to someone from my tribe!   

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 I asked my male colleagues (regular victims of my random feminist outbursts) why they think women should wear the black abaya.  Most said girls must start wearing the abaya when they reach puberty to protect their 'reputation'. I asked them to explain what they meant by that but they just went around in circles repeating the argument about reputation. A couple of others believe society looks down upon girls who don’t wear it. My favorite answer was from a guy who said men wouldn't be able to concentrate at work if their female colleagues wore colors. Really?! 

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Don’t get me wrong here. I’m not against the abaya at all. In fact, I love wearing it. It’s practical and comfortable and I can wear whatever I want underneath it. Furthermore, it’s extremely fashionable. Black happens to be very elegant especially when studded with jewelry or adorned with silver or gold linings and other designs. The cost of abayas can range from twenty to two or three hundred rials depending on the detailed hand embroidery, designer brand, and crystals. Wearing the abaya is also an easier way to cover up without having to worry about coordinating an entire outfit. On the other hand, it gets dirty easily, gets stuck in the wheels of my office chair at least twice a day, and is a constant tripping hazard. Furthermore, during the summer the abaya becomes your own personal heating pad. Black absorbs heat like a sponge absorbs liquid.

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 So, why do we wear it? Because we’ve gotten used to it and are afraid of what people will say if we don’t? Why the obsession with conformity? Society in Oman has always had a problem with anyone different, more so here in Dhofar where it’s almost taboo to stand out of the crowd, especially for females. As a young woman who practically worships individuality, I find this very hard at times. I'm sure many young women out there share my sentiments. 

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 From a religious point of view, wearing black isn’t strictly required by Islam. Muslim women should wear loose fitting and modest clothing that covers the body. Can that not be achieved with green or purple? I knew a woman here in Salalah who made beautiful colored abayas and tried to market them to the local women a few years ago but most claimed their husbands would never let them. The word ‘let’ is what gets on my nerves. Abayas are beautiful, but every woman should have the right to choose whether she wants to wear it or not.  What concerns me is that girls all over Oman are being forced to wear black from a young age by their families. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a little color. In Muscat, things have changed and it’s not uncommon to see women in color but as for the rest of us, black rules. I don’t predict any changes in the near future in Dhofar because we haven’t even started tackling the issue of the black face veil, let alone the abaya!  Goodness knows how long it’ll be before women here can start choosing what they want to wear. Food for thought…

The Funeral Debate

Published January 25, 2011
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There's no denying the fact that in Dhofar everyone knows everything about everyone else. When something interesting happens, word spreads immediately and it becomes the talk of the town. This can be horrible at times and quite useful at others. By useful, I mean funerals. When someone dies, within an hour every relative, friend and acquaintance is informed and people start flocking to the funeral. Unlike other countries, funerals in Oman happen very quickly. The body of the deceased is washed, wrapped in a shroud immediately, and kissed goodbye by the closest family members. It is then taken by the men of the family to the graveyard where the burial takes place on the same day in the Islamic way followed by special funeral prayers at the mosque performed by all the male mourners. Meanwhile, the females hastily prepare the house for the funeral. Personal belongings are shoved into closets, bedding is rolled up, and the kitchen is stocked with drinks, fruit, and tea. Prayer beads, chapters of the Qur'an and boxes of Kleenex are placed at every corner, and the neighbors and close relatives send their housemaids over to help with the preparation.

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While the men are at the graveyard burying the deceased, a huge tent is being installed outside the house to accommodate them upon their return. Tent companies can set up a huge funeral tent outside your home at a moment's notice. Within an hour or two, hundreds of men will have flocked to the tent to pay their respects. Meanwhile, the house will be bursting at the seams with female mourners. Close relatives spend all day at the funeral whereas distant relatives and acquaintances come to pay their respects and leave within an hour to make room for more mourners. Some women take shifts in the kitchen preparing refreshments and meals while others walk around the house with trays of coffee, tea, and drinks offering them to guests. In the house, the women usually talk quietly, cry, or read the Qur'an and pray. Some of the older women wail like banshees despite the fact that funeral wailing is un-Islamic and quite frightening. For immediate family members, the hours go by in a blur of greetings, condolences, noise, and chaos. This goes on for three long days from early morning to late at night. Everyone is expected to come and pay their respects during those three days and by the end of it all life supposedly goes back to normal.

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I have mixed feelings about the whole funeral system in Oman and particularly in Dhofar, and I'm sure many of you Omanis out there share my sentiments. First of all, funerals are extremely costly. Not only do you have to serve refreshments to hundreds of people but in Dhofar usually several animals are slaughtered to feed the guests at meals. Providing lunch and dinner to that many people is no joke. Who can afford that kind of expense these days?

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Furthermore, after losing a loved one, the thought of facing hundreds of people within a few hours is emotionally and physically draining. Because men and women mourn separately, when can immediate family members comfort one another? Recently I was at a funeral where a couple had lost their child. The mother was receiving guests all day while her husband was outside in the tent doing the same. They did not see each other until midnight when everyone had left. Despite the fact that she remained strong and greeted people with a smile, I could tell all she wanted was to be alone with her husband to mourn the loss of their child. It was written all over her face. In my opinion, I don't think anyone should have to go through that.

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On the other hand, the support provided by the local community is amazing. Having hundreds of people come to let you know you’re not alone in your suffering and knowing they're all praying for you and your loved ones is extremely touching. I also feel that the transitional three day mourning period is a good form of closure for the family. Recently and to the horror of the old fashioned elders in Dhofar, some families have announced they're holding shorter funerals that last only a day or two. Other families have made it clear that no meals will be provided. I don't know how they would implement that rule, but I think it's extremely sensible. How else can we improve the funeral system in Oman? Any ideas?

Holiday Woes

Published January 4, 2011
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On New Year’s Day 2011 a beautiful little country on the Indian Ocean woke up from a very long and blissful snooze that started on the first day of Ramadhan. I may be exaggerating a little, but it seems to me like we've had nothing but holidays and celebrations since August!
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During Ramadhan it was almost impossible to get any work done due to shorter working hours and non-responsive fasting employees. Then it was Eid Al Fitr for a week. Next came the heavy preparations for Oman's 40th National Day celebrations in every village and city in Oman. That meant most children in the public schooling system were out of school by 11 a.m everyday. Many adults participating in the celebratory events were also given time off work. We were then hit with more holidays for Eid Al Adha followed by a long series of National Day celebrations. Should I continue or is this becoming overwhelming? The holidays for the new Islamic year at the beginning of December were extra-long and after going back to work for a little over a week we were granted a beautifully long (and belated) National Day break at the end of December.
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The bottom line is that we were spoiled rotten by the number of public holidays in 2010. As wonderful as it may seem, it has been absolute chaos for anyone trying to get any work done during the last quarter of the year. If we were given actual 'dates' for the holidays in advance, we may have been able to plan around them, but given Oman's tendency to announce holidays at the very last moment, it's a wonder entire sectors haven't collapsed! I speak for project managers, newspaper editors, event managers, travel agents, conference organizers, surgeons, people working in academia, etc. My line of work requires planning events year round, bringing in consultants from abroad, and overseeing bookings. At the end of November rumors began circulating about the two sets of December holidays. I had several events planned at work for the month of December, and I also had several consultants flying in from places like the US and England. After many sleepless nights, frantic phone calls, and desperate attempts at picking up clues through the magic Omani grapevine, I gave up and postponed most of the events until after mid-January when I knew it would be safe. The stress of last-minute cancellations just wasn't worth it.
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Last week's nine day holiday was definitely a treat but is the privilege of, heaven-forbid, actually planning a vacation too much to ask for? If I had known about it in advance, I could have – for example - applied for an Italian tourist visa and flown to Milan for a week. The recent Oman Air ads were definitely tempting. Instead, I stayed home and read. Many expatriates I know in Salalah could have flown home to see their families but again didn't have enough time for last-minute bookings. Not everyone can hop into their Toyota land cruiser and drive to their family in the next village for a holiday, you know?
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I'm not criticizing the way things are run here in Oman, but I do enjoy a good rant every once in a while as you may have noticed. Despite the fact that the public holiday system in Oman drives me crazy sometimes, I still think it's charming and the anticipation can be fun. Furthermore, along with everybody else I'm forced to remain on my tiptoes and keep up my problem solving skills!
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Anyway, the good news is that real work may actually get done now that holiday season is over. Oh, and the bad news? No more holidays until September!